I’m going to let you in on a little secret… Despite what men’s fashion magazines would have you believe, tailoring is not going to change your life.
What it could be, is the difference.
The difference between looking like you’ve been squeezed into a suit that’s too small or a “hand-me-down that looks too big” one. It’s trousers that don’t pool over your shoes or show your ankles, it’s buttons that fasten comfortably and don’t stretch or contort the rest of the fabric, it’s shirts that have room in the chest but don’t billow in the arms and it’s collars that button without turning you blue.
Simply put, tailoring gives the wearer a garment that fits.
A modern coat of armor, perfectly balanced, that drapes beautifully over the wearer. A suit is the only garment, that has been built and designed, specifically, to accentuate the male form.
When executed correctly, a tailored suit can broaden and build the shoulders, suppress the waist, and give the impression of height. At the same time, it is luxurious to the touch, beautiful to look at, cool in the heat, and warm in the cold.
Birth of off the rack suits
“Is that what a real man is supposed to look like?”
Edward Norton, Fight Club
The goldilocks effect.
An off-the-rack suit that’s too large (left).
An off-the-rack suit that’s too tight (centre).
A made-to-measure suit that’s just right (right).
What do we do?
Hit the outer curvature of your shoulder bone and then drop down in a clean line to your cuff.
Which should rest comfortably on your wrist bone, allowing an inch to half-inch of shirt fabric visible under your jacket.
Your buttons should fasten comfortably. Without significant gaps or an ‘x’ forming across the buttoning point (see below)
Your jacket should be like a good lawyer – it should cover your rear at all times.
Trousers that break once, over your shoes, stopping at your first lace.
Shirts that are slim through the body and arms, don’t untuck and button at the neck comfortably.